Tanner the Triceratops - Free Triceratops Crochet Pattern (2024)

Dinosaurs are so popular these days! My son just loves them, and his dino obsession is what gave me the inspiration for my latest design. Introducing my new free triceratops crochet pattern, Tanner the Triceratops!

Tanner is a beginner friendly dinosaur amigurumi. He is about 10″ tall when sitting down, and about 13″ tall when standing. Most pieces are worked in the round and then sewn together at the end, with a bit of embroidery for the nails.

Tanner the Triceratops - Free Triceratops Crochet Pattern (1)

Table of Contents

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this free pattern, you may be interested in my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Pin this pattern for later.

Tanner the Triceratops - Free Triceratops Crochet Pattern (2)

Add Tanner the Triceratops to your project queue and favorite this pattern on Ravelry here.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I used WeCrochet’s Brava Worsted yarn to make Tanner the Triceratops. You’ll also need a 4.0mm (G) crochet hook, tapestry needle/yarn needle, scissors, safety eyes (if desired), and poly-fil stuffing for this free triceratops crochet pattern. You can find all of these over on my Amazon page here.

Free Crochet Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

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Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 8.5” tall (sitting) or 11.5” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used: WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (teal): 218 yds, color B (gray): 59 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 12mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochetSC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, horns, and tail require stuffing. Stuff as you work it to ensure each piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

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Head

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R12: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Embroider around eyes for additional detail, if desired. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

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R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)

R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

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Small Horn

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6-9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

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Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this like this: (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1 SC, 1 SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 31, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (30 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 30 FSC***. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

Fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: 30 FSC. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

R7: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

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Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)

R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)

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Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

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Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

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Tail

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R6-9, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R17-21 on the top of the head.

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Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R22.

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Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R14-19 of the bottom of the head.

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Attach legs over R7-8 of body, with 4 sts showing between.

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Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R6-8, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

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Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

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Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R5-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

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Attach tail over R6-13, on the back of the body.

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Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

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Tips & Tricks

  • While sewing the pieces of this free triceratops crochet pattern, hold your pieces in place with pins so that they don’t move around.
  • Prevent your triceratops amigurumi from having a floppy head with extra stuffing. Check out this post on amigurumi head wobble.
  • These amigurumi tips and tricks are a great reference!

Alterations

  • Make a strawberry triceratops crochet pattern using this free pattern modification for Strawberry Tanner the Triceratops!
  • To create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free triceratops crochet pattern, use a plush yarn and suitable hook size, then follow the pattern as written.
  • For a smaller triceratops amigurumi, check out the free crochet pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope you enjoyed this free triceratops crochet pattern! If you love dinosaurs and want to see more free dinosaur crochet patterns, check out my other dinosaur amigurumi patterns!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

Want to see more from me? Be sure to subscribe to my email newsletter so that you never miss a pattern!

Follow along with me on Instagram for daily updates and a behind the scenes look at my designs.

I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

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PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN.
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

Tanner the Triceratops - Free Triceratops Crochet Pattern (2024)

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Is club crochet free? ›

Club Crochet is a website for experienced crocheters and hookers-in-training! We offer free and for-sale digital patterns in our pattern library, and you can purchase all-in-one crochet kits directly from our shop.

Does Hobby Lobby have free crochet patterns? ›

Hobby Lobby yarn is known for its high quality and affordability, making it a popular choice among crafters. Our collection of free crochet patterns using Hobby Lobby yarn is bursting with inspiration, from classic granny squares to on-trend fashion projects like blankets, scarves, and hats.

Can you sell crochet items from someone else's free pattern? ›

Does this mean you can sell crochet items made from someone else's pattern? Yes, absolutely! There is no specific legal language or precedent that shows that a maker of a product can not sell that product however he/she chooses.

Which is cheaper knitting or crochet? ›

Crochet projects tend to use more yarn than knitting projects, making them more expensive in the long run. Crochet patterns tend to be more difficult to find than knitting patterns. Crocheted fabric isn't well-suited to articles of clothing.

Is crochet a cheap hobby? ›

Crochet can be both an inexpensive hobby or a more costly one, depending on your choices. To start crocheting, you need only a crochet hook and some yarn.

Why does crochet cost so much? ›

Costly. Like any business, it takes money to create a handmade product. While the “starter tools,” including crochet hooks or fabric scissors, are only onetime purchases, other resources, like the yarn itself, are a continuous investment.

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Standard abbreviation: p

Variation: Make picot (mp)

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Red Heart Yarns has one of the most up-to-date and complete lists of tutorials. They cover everything from super basic information such as how to hold a crochet hook to beginner crochet stitches and on into much more advanced stitches and techniques.

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Crochet Studio is the ultimate app for crafting enthusiasts. With powerful tools and yarn AI, you can design stunning granny squares and stripe blankets in no time.

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Stitchboard.com Free Pattern Wizard, create your own beading, crochet, cross stitch, and knitting patterns.

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